Have you ever been to Dogo Onsen? Dogo Onsen is a hot spring located in Matsuyama City, Ehime Prefecture, and is counted among Japan’s three ancient hot springs, along with Arima Onsen in Hyogo and Shirahama Onsen in Wakayama.
I have been frequently visiting Dogo Onsen since my student days, and it’s a hot spring that makes your skin smooth and beautiful. In this article, I will introduce seven must-visit carefully selected spots and a 2-day itinerary for touring Dogo Onsen, so please use it as a reference.
目次
- 1 Where is Dogo Onsen, the Tourist Attraction Located?
- 2 The Perfect 2-Day Tourist Itinerary for Enjoying Dogo Onsen
- 2.1 Dogo Tourism Model Course (Part 1): With a Car
- 2.2 Uchiko Town
- 2.3 The Scenery of Ozu
- 2.4 Dogo Onsen
- 2.5 Botchan Train
- 2.6 Ishite-ji Temple
- 2.7 Matsuyama Castle
- 2.8 Shimonada Station
- 3 For a 2-Day Tour, Enjoy Dogo Onsen and its Vicinity
Where is Dogo Onsen, the Tourist Attraction Located?
Dogo Onsen is a popular tourist attraction representing Ehime and has been a topic of conversation in recent years due to the artistic hanging curtains used during the renovation of the main Dogo Onsen building. Located slightly north of the center of Matsuyama City, in Dogo Yunomachi, Ehime Prefecture, it is about a 25-minute taxi or tram ride from JR Matsuyama Station. From Matsuyama Airport, it takes about 45 minutes by limousine bus and about 30 minutes by taxi or rental car.
If traveling by ferry, it takes about 45 minutes from Matsuyama Tourist Port or Mitsuhama Port by limousine bus, or about 25 minutes by taxi or rental car. By car, it’s approximately 20 minutes from Matsuyama IC on the Matsuyama Expressway.
For high-speed buses, there are overnight services to and from Dogo Onsen (arriving in the morning and departing at night). You can board the bus to Dogo Onsen from Shinjuku, Yokohama, Nagoya, Umeda, Shin-Osaka, Takarazuka IC, Nishinomiya Kita IC, Matsushige Town, and Tokushima. Buses departing from Dogo Onsen are available to Tokushima, Matsushige Town, Nishinomiya Kita IC, Takarazuka IC, Shin-Osaka, Umeda, and Nagoya. Additionally, there are buses to Yokohama and Shinjuku from Daido, which is a 12-minute tram ride from Dogo Onsen.
The Perfect 2-Day Tourist Itinerary for Enjoying Dogo Onsen
I will introduce a model course for a typical pattern where you arrive at Matsuyama Airport, Matsuyama Station, or Matsuyama Tourist Port in the morning. Please note, if you are visiting Dogo Onsen by car, refer to the car course.
Dogo Tourism Model Course (Part 1): With a Car
This course involves renting a car to tour the surrounding areas, staying at Dogo Onsen, enjoying the area around the hot springs, and then heading home. The outline is as follows:
- Streets of Uchiko
- Uchiko-za
- Scenery of Ozu
- Shimonada Station
- Dogo Onsen
- Arcade street and local beer
- Morning at Dogo Onsen (external baths)
- Dogo Art 2023
- Botchan Train
- Ishite-ji Temple
- Matsuyama Castle
- Dogo Tourism Model Course (Part 2): Without a Car
This course involves touring the area around the hot springs using public transportation, staying at Dogo Onsen, and then exploring the nearby areas before returning home. The outline is as follows:
- Ishite-ji Temple
- Matsuyama Castle
- Dogo Art 2023
- Dogo Onsen
- Botchan Train
- Arcade street and local beer
- Morning at Dogo Onsen (foot bath)
- Shimonada Station (visit by riding the Iyo-Nada Monogatari)
- Scenery of Ozu
For a 2-day tour of Dogo Onsen, the must-visit selected spots, including both courses, are the Streets of Uchiko, the Scenery of Ozu, Dogo Onsen, Botchan Train, Ishite-ji Temple, Matsuyama Castle, and Shimonada Station. These seven spots are highlighted below, so please use them as a reference for your sightseeing.
Must-Visit Spots for a 2-Day Dogo Onsen Tour
Uchiko Town
Find Solace in the Streets of Uchiko
Uchiko Town in Kita District, Ehime Prefecture, located about 40 minutes by car from Matsuyama Airport, was once a town that flourished with the wood wax (mokuro) industry. Wood wax, derived from the sumac tree, was a major product of Uchiko Town, making it Japan’s leading producer.
Wood wax was also used as a raw material for Japanese candles, highly valued as a source of light in the era before electricity. The warm flame of these candles, still made today using traditional techniques dating back to the Edo period, makes for a wonderful souvenir. Watching the process of artisans skillfully applying the hot, melted wood wax by hand is a sight to behold, which you can witness at the Omori Wax Candle Shop.
The ‘Yokaichi and Gokoku areas,’ lined with merchant houses and townhouses, preserve the atmosphere of the Edo and Meiji periods. This district is designated as a National Important Traditional Building Preservation Area, offering a relaxing space for visitors. You can also rent a kimono here, which makes for a delightful stroll through the area.
Explore the Hidden Gem of Uchiko-za
At ‘Uchiko’s Japanese Handicrafts Artisan House,’ you can enjoy experiences like making mini-lanterns and moss balls.
Uchiko-za is a playhouse built to celebrate the enthronement of Emperor Taisho. Still in use today, you can tour its interior on days when no plays are being held. At this playhouse, you can experience unique activities like exploring the trapdoors used by actors (naraku) and turning the revolving stage. It’s truly a hidden gem! Near Uchiko-za, at Uorin/Rinsuke, you can enjoy a special Tai-meshi (sea bream rice) from Nanyo Uwajima, a variation different from the Tai-meshi of Chuyo Matsuyama.
The Scenery of Ozu
Enjoy Ozu, Known as the ‘Little Kyoto of Iyo’
If you drive south from Uchiko for about 20 minutes, you’ll reach Ozu City in Ehime Prefecture. From Matsuyama Station to Ozu Station by train, it takes about an hour and a half to two hours. The highlights of Ozu include Ozu Castle, which has been restored with a tenshu (castle tower), and Garyu Sanso, among others.
From both Ozu Castle and Garyu Sanso, you can enjoy scenic views of the Hijikawa River, offering a truly soothing experience.
Garyu Sanso is a beautiful sukiya-style mountain villa constructed by the wealthy Meiji-era merchant, Torajiro Kawai. It took 10 years of planning and 4 years of construction to complete. Not only is Garyu Sanso itself designated as an important cultural property of Japan, but you can also enjoy its beautiful Japanese garden. It has been awarded one star in the Michelin Green Guide Japan.
Note that if you have spent a leisurely time renting a kimono in Uchiko, you might choose to skip Ozu and head directly to Dogo. Arriving early at Dogo Onsen allows you to enjoy a stroll through the hot spring town’s arcade street and fully experience Dogo.
Dogo Onsen
Savor Ehime at the Dogo Onsen Shopping Arcade (Dogo Shopping Street)
If you are traveling by car, it takes about 45 minutes from Uchiko and about 65 minutes from Ozu to arrive at Dogo Onsen. By train, it takes about 2 to 2.5 hours from Ozu Station to Dogo Onsen, via Matsuyama Station. Once you’ve checked into your hotel, first take a bath and then head out to the Dogo Onsen Arcade Street. You can enjoy a leisurely stroll in a yukata, which is one of the delights of hot spring tourism. If you’re short on time, you can do this after dinner!
The arcade street, affectionately known as ‘Dogo Haikara Street,’ located in front of the main Dogo Onsen building, extends to Dogo Onsen Station of the Iyo Railway city tram (streetcar) and is lined with souvenir shops and eateries catering to tourists. Along the way, you’ll find public bathhouses such as ‘Tsubaki no Yu’ and ‘Asuka no Yu.’
Most shops are open from 9 a.m. to about 10 p.m., but some close earlier, so it’s a good idea to check in advance.
Below are some recommended shops in Dogo Onsen Arcade Street.
Dogo Uotake
This place offers Ehime’s two major types of Tai-meshi (sea bream rice), so you can compare them. Actually, Uwajima and Matsuyama Tai-meshi are not the same. You have to visit the shop to find out! Additionally, they have many dishes using abundant Ehime ingredients, recommended for Japanese cuisine lovers. They also offer a dish called Satsuma rice, similar to Satsuma soup.
Business Hours: 11:00 AM – 11:00 PM
Open year-round
Ippuroku Honpo (Dogo Main Store)
Famous for its tarts, here you can try ‘Tart Tempura and Nabeyaki Udon.’ ‘Tart Tempura’ is similar to Miyajima’s fried Momiji Manju, allowing you to enjoy the combination of oil and sweet bean paste. Nabeyaki Udon, a Matsuyama specialty, will captivate you with its sweet broth.
Business Hours: 8:00 AM – 10:00 PM
Closed on Wednesdays
Ehime Fruit Club: Mikan no Ki
Ehime Prefecture is a kingdom of citrus fruits, and this specialty store deals in seasonal citrus and processed citrus products. You can also enjoy original Iyokan gelato here. Their natural sweet citrus juice is highly recommended.
Business Hours: 8:30 AM – 10:00 PM
Open year-round
Tomoe Dojo (A Super Hidden Gem)
This shop manufactures and sells Botchan Dango, but they also make and sell a ‘Jumbo Botchan Dango’ which is nine times the size of the regular one. The size is impressive, making it a perfect souvenir that’s sure to be a ‘surprise box’ when opened.
Business Hours: 8:00 AM – 10:00 PM
Closed on Wednesdays
Although not located in Dogo Onsen Arcade Street, there is a place within a 5-minute walk from Dogo Onsen where you can enjoy local beer perfect after a hot spring bath.
Dogo Beer Hall and DOGO STANDING BAR
It offers refreshing local beer, crafted with care by the Mizuguchi Brewery established in 1895 (Meiji 28). You can enjoy four types of beer: Kölsch, Altbier, Stout, and Weizen.
・Dogo Beer Hall
Business Hours: 11:00 AM – 10:00 PM
Open year-round
・DOGO STANDING BAR BAKUSHUKAN
Annex Business Hours: (Weekdays) 3:00 PM – LAST, (Sat/Sun/Holidays) 12:00 PM – LAST
Open year-round
Dogo Onsen Annex: Asukanoyu
While you can enjoy hot springs at your hotel, the real charm of Dogo Onsen is in experiencing its public bathhouses (sotoyu). Currently, there are three public bathhouses in Dogo Onsen: ‘Dogo Onsen Honkan,’ ‘Tsubaki no Yu,’ and ‘Dogo Onsen Annex Asukanoyu.’ However, only a part of Dogo Onsen Honkan is available for bathing due to preservation work. Tsubaki no Yu is more strongly positioned as a beloved local bathhouse. Therefore, I recommend trying Dogo Onsen Annex Asukanoyu. It opens at 6 AM, so be sure to enjoy a morning bath!
At Dogo Onsen Annex Asukanoyu, you can also enjoy family baths (reservation required).
The space where art, traditional crafts, and Dogo Onsen merge is a healing space that reflects the spirit of Japan. It’s easy to see why it’s so popular with foreign tourists.
Dogo Art 2023
Last year’s ‘Dogo Onsenart 2022,’ which blended the charm of hot springs and art, was well received and has concluded. This year, the focus on ‘art’ continues, with an eye towards post-COVID recovery and inbound tourism resurgence. At Dogo Onsen Honkan, you can see works by Shinro Ohtake, at Dogo Onsen Annex Asukanoyu, works by Mika Ninagawa, and in the Dogo Shopping Street, impactful and large-scale works by Muho are on display. It’s a must-see.
Walk in the Sky: The Skywalk
Just a 3-minute walk from the Botchan Karakuri Clock, ‘The Skywalk’ is a promenade where you can soak in a footbath while overlooking the entire Dogo Onsen Honkan and the town of Dogo. It is a popular spot among both locals and tourists.
Botchan Karakuri Clock
Near Dogo Onsen Station, there is a mechanical clock featuring characters from Natsume Soseki’s novel ‘Botchan.’ The characters appear to lively music. The clock, which also has a footbath, is hugely popular with both locals and tourists. From 8 AM to 10 PM, local music related to the area plays every hour and the characters start moving (every 30 minutes on weekends, holidays, New Year’s Eve, New Year’s Day, and Golden Week).
Botchan Train
The Botchan Train, which most tourists take when visiting Matsuyama and Dogo Onsen, is a train equipped with a diesel engine, designed to resemble a steam locomotive. It’s charming and atmospheric, loved not just by tourists but also by local residents. The Botchan Train operates only on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays, and reservations are not possible.
With a maximum capacity of 36 passengers, it’s advisable to line up early to ensure a spot. Even if you can’t get on, you can still take photos of the train at Dogo Onsen Station. The manual turning of the train is quite a sight to behold!
Ishite-ji Temple
It is a large temple that serves as the 51st temple on the Shikoku Pilgrimage and is home to six national important cultural properties. It has been awarded one star in the Michelin Green Guide Japan.
The temple enshrines the Yakushi Nyorai (believed to heal both mental and physical illnesses) and the Kishimojin (revered for granting fertility and safe childbirth), making it beloved not just by pilgrims but also by local residents. A specialty of the temple is ‘Yakimochi,’ a delicacy made from rice flour dough filled with sweet bean paste and grilled until crispy. It’s delicious and soothing for both the mind and body.
Located about 1.3 km from Dogo Onsen, it’s a nice place to visit during a leisurely walk. After visiting, you might want to take a refreshing bath at Dogo Onsen and then stroll around the arcade street.
Address: 2-9-21 Ishite, Matsuyama City, Ehime Prefecture
Phone Number: 089-977-0870
Business Hours: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Open year-round
Parking: Available for about 40-50 regular cars / about 10 large vehicles
Matsuyama Castle
Matsuyama Castle is located on Castle Hill in the center of Matsuyama City, at an elevation of 132 meters, and can be visited by ropeway. It’s a popular tourist spot among locals, offering a panoramic view of Matsuyama City. During the cherry blossom season, you can witness a magical flurry of cherry blossoms at Matsuyama Castle. It’s also ideal for morning and evening walks. The castle tower is open for entry from 9 AM. Please use the nearby paid parking for your vehicle.
Near the ropeway station leading up to Matsuyama Castle, there’s the Matsuyama store of the Kiri no Mori Confectionery Workshop, where you can enjoy delicious Japanese sweets.
If You Have Time, Don’t Miss the Misty Forest Confectionery Workshop ‘Matsuyama Store’
This store sells the incredibly rare and explosively popular ‘Kiri no Mori Daifuku’ sweets, which are only available through lottery sales online due to their high demand. The signature product, ‘Kiri no Mori Daifuku,’ which always attracts long lines from the morning, is a luxurious treat for adults, generously made with high-quality, delicious matcha. It seems you can almost certainly purchase it if you line up 30 minutes before the store opens (limited to 3 boxes per person, each containing 8 pieces). The store also sells other seasonal Japanese and Western sweets, which you can enjoy on the premises. The shelf life is 3 days in the refrigerator, but they are best enjoyed as soon as possible, so eat them quickly unless they are for souvenirs. They are impressively delicious!
Address: 3-3-1 Otemachi, Matsuyama City, Ehime Prefecture (1-minute walk from Iyotetsu Otemachi Station)
Phone: 089-934-5567
Business Hours: 9:30 AM – 5:30 PM
Parking: None available, please use the nearest paid parking
Shimonada Station
Visit Shimonada Station via the Tourist Train ‘Iyo-Nada Monogatari’
The ‘Iyo-Nada Monogatari,’ which began operation on July 26, 2014, celebrated its 9th anniversary on July 26, 2023. It stops at the famous Shimonada Station, known from the JR Seishun 18 Kippu (Youth 18 Ticket) advertisement, and offers a route (Ozu Edition) with views of the Iyo-Nada Sea from the platform. During the day, you can see the sparkling Iyo-Nada Sea reflecting the sunlight, and in the evening, enjoy the view of the sea bathed in orange hues of the sunset. If time allows, please enjoy the breathtaking view of the sunset.
On the ‘Ozu Edition’ route from Matsuyama Station to Ozu Station, after enjoying the scenery at Shimonada Station, you can explore the streets of Ozu, known as the ‘Little Kyoto of Iyo.’ The train departs Matsuyama Station at 8:26 AM, arrives at Shimonada Station for a 10-minute stop, and then reaches Ozu Station at 10:28 AM (as of September 23, 2023). It’s popular, so it’s best to book early.
If you can’t get a reservation, you can also take a regular Iyo-Nada Line train from Matsuyama Station, stopping at Shimonada Station before heading to Ozu Station. If you’re short on time, consider not going all the way to Ozu. Instead, disembark for a leisurely stroll and enjoy the scenery, then return on the same route.
Recommended Stays in Dogo Onsen: ‘Yachiyo’ and ‘Yamatoya Besso’
Both accommodations offer excellent cuisine and hospitality, making them the kind of places where, once you stay, you’re sure to return. Rooms with open-air baths are popular among families and couples as they allow guests to enjoy the hot springs without any reservations. The waters of Dogo Onsen are known for their beautifying effects on the skin, so take your time and soak to become even more beautiful.
For a 2-Day Tour, Enjoy Dogo Onsen and its Vicinity
If you are going to Dogo Onsen, I recommend visiting nearby tourist spots such as Ozu and Uchiko. Enjoying the rich nature and scenic beauty will provide a healing escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. If you prefer a leisurely time, it’s also a good idea to explore Matsuyama Castle and the shrines and temples near Dogo Onsen. Ehime has many more off-the-beaten-path spots, so be sure to visit again.
If you’re heading to Dogo Onsen, it’s also a great idea to extend your trip to Tobe and Sada Cape in Southern Ehime.
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